Anchor Fish & Chips Blows a Lot of Steam

Nothing attracts a crowd like a crowd, which may be why getting a table at Anchor Fish & Chips has become a bit of an obsession for us. While the waiting area is tiny (one bench for 4 and standing room for about 5 more), determined guests willingly cram into the vestibule for 30, 60, or 90 minute waits. Good restaurants down the street are now full of patrons who "tried to eat at Anchor but the wait was too long." This place is buzzing and we had to know why.

After three tries, we finally found a trick to getting a quick table at this hipster haven: arrive early on a Sunday night. After only 20 minutes we scored a tall table by the front window, which featured a lovely view of people shifting from one foot to another waiting for their name to be called. The menu was surprisingly varied, offering hearty British staples such as shepherd's pie, cornish pasties, and curried fries, but at Anchor you have to order the fish and chips. Ordering anything else at this restaurant would be like buying a sweatsuit from Nordstrom.

Our food arrived quickly, leaving not much time to sip on Harps and smirk at the crowds starting to turn away from excessive wait times. At first the food presented well - foot long whitefish wrapped in fluffy, golden crust, piles of thick cut fries dusted with sea salt, and an extra side of tangy tartar. But after a few bites I'd had enough. I wanted to attack my plate with blotting papers. I wanted to wring the oiliness out of the fish and start all over. I felt puffy and heavy and my mouth was coated in grease. I needed a salad. And a day of fasting. Yet the crowds kept coming...