Blackbird Cafe makes my mouth sing

I've driven by the small black awning for years, always wondering what was inside. And after a dreary, rainy, January day, when winter sports are out of the question and there's nothing to do but hunker down, we were ready for a little adventure. Dawning galoshes and umbrellas, we headed southwest to 50th and Bryant.

Minneapolis is sprinkled with neighborhood dining gems, but this tiny restaurant may be the crown jewel. We arrived a bit after 7 and sent the 20 minute wait perusing Shoppe Local, a nearby store featuring locally made gifts and nick-nacks. (Both Shoppe Local and Patina stay open until 9 on Saturday nights, so even patrons with longer waits will find plenty of retail distraction). When our table was ready we strolled back, parted the tapestry that separates the entry from the dining area, and let the surprises begin.

Space is really at a premium at Blackbird, but the restaurant manages to be more cozy that claustrophobic. The decor is eclectic: small racks of antlers dot the walls, branches with Japanese hanging lanterns spring from a corner of the ceiling, and the warm lights are kept dim for extra romance. Wanting to linger, we ordered a bottle of syrah, a plate of olives, and took it all in.

Blackbird's menu is small but mighty, changing at the beginning of each new month. I struggled to choose between the London Broil (a flank steak sliced over house made truffle gnocchi); gnocchi with lobster cream and hazelnuts, or the salmon. I ultimately opted for the salmon, which was served over a bed of sushi rice, drizzled with blood orange yuzu glaze, and came paired with a tasty shrimp ceviche sidekick. It was a dish truly worth of royalty. The tender, flaky fish was enhanced by the tart, subtly smoky bite of the glaze. Veggies in the tangy ceviche had just the right crunch, and the soft, sticky sushi rice was the perfect neutral base for bringing the whole act together.

My dining companion, after much conversation with our server, ordered trout over a warm pork belly potato salad. I confess that the sound of this dish didn't initially perk my taste buds, but the dish was truly a delight. The potato salad, which was welcomingly devoid of mayonnaise, was more like potato hash. Spuds and pork belly were diced and spiced, the perfect accompaniment to the smoky grilled fish. The pork belly was flavorful, not at all like the tripe I was expecting. It was an adventurous choice and a true surprise.

While we usually stay away from desserts, our dinner was such a knockout that we couldn't resist. Although tables nearby were ordering a tempting tower of coconut cream pie, we opted for the "trio," a sample platter of jasmine tea creme brulee, mocha cake, and carrot cake. Like everything else we had at Blackbird, these were favorites with a twist. The creme brulee was perfectly crusted, with a floral tone to the custard that really cleansed my palate. The mocha cake featured something that so many cakes lack... actual flavor! Rather than merely tasting sweet, this tasted of rich cocoa and dark coffee. And the carrot cake, two relatively thin cookie-like layers sandwiching frosting based on goat cheese rather than cream cheese, was an unusual take on the classic.

An unassuming restaurant next door to the much lauded Heidi's, Blackbird is taking the neighborhood eatery concept to new heights. They can take risks in their menu because they understand balance: the balance of flavors and textures, the balance of familiar choices with unusual twists, and the balance of quirkiness with comfort. Blackbird has moved to the front of the pecking order, and we'll definitely be back.